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Stage 3: From Prizren to Prishtina

Therande/Suva Reka

Located in a largely agricultural area, Therande is in grape growing territory. The local vineyard has recently been privatised so look out for Kosovar wine hitting your supermarket shelves soon.

Lypjan

This simple town has grown up around two main industries – the bottling factory, formerly the Coca-Cola factory, and the cardboard box factory. Not much to stop for, but if you're hungry there are various motels along the road to Prishtina which will serve food.

Prishtina

Explore the narrow lanes of the Old Quarter and Bazaar, where anything you can think of is probably for sale in the lively market. The friendly traders are often returned refugees, and those who speak English will likely be pleased to stop and chat. In the centre of the bazaar you find the Clock Tower. The original bell was stolen in 2001 and replaced by an electronic system. By now you probably don't need us to explain that the rather common occurrence of power-cuts in Kosovo mean the clock is unlikely to show the right time!

The Xhamia e Mbretit – or Faith Mosque – opposite the Clock Tower was built in 1461. The large dome isn't the only impressive feature – inside the walls and ceiling are decorated with paintings and carvings. Some carvings can also be seen above the front door.

The impressive Ethnographic Museum, located in an 18th Century House, is well worth a visit. Exhibits include handicraft, rituals, clothing and the English-speaking guides are also well informed on local and national architecture. (Entry approx. €2.50, closed Sundays.) The nearby Museum of Kosovo contains a large archaeological exhibition, including the original 6000 year old Goddess on a Throne statue, of which the Kosovar people are so proud. (Admission free, closed Mondays.)

The Carshi Mosque, Prishtina's oldest building dating from the 15th Century, is opposite the Museum of Kosovo. The old men of Prishtina are likely to be located around the marble fountain at the side of the mosque.

For a rather different kind of Kosovar architecture (you'll have to wait and see because we can't even describe this one!), head to the National Library, opened in 1982.

Despite some vandalism and a distinct lack of care, The National Martyr's Monument, in the Park of Martyrs, commemorating those who gave their lives to free the region during WW2, is still worth a look. Close by is the Grave of ex-president Ibrahim Rugova who died of lung cancer in 2006.

If you fancy a bit of greenery and scenery head to the Gërmia Park to the East of the town centre. Home to an enormous swimming pool, the park also has extensive forested areas which are good for a walk – but be sure to stick to the paths to avoid the landmines.

Other sights include the small and suitably humble Mother Teresa Statue, commemorating this remarkable woman of Albanian origin; the Newborn Monument created just last year to commemorate the declaration of independence, and the Photos of the Missing which decorate the gates at the Northern end of Nene Tereza Street and provide a poignant reminder of the struggles of Kosovo's recent past. If you fancy some help finding your way around, or think a bit of local knowledge would improve your visit, seek out the enterprising locals who have recently started Walking Tours of the city, tailor-made to groups or individuals.

10km outside of Prishtina is the spectacular Gracanica Monastery – a wonderful example of Orthodox Serbian art from the 14th Century. Inside you will find amazing frescoes that are around seven centuries old! The site is being guarded by KFOR troops, but don't be put off, and entrance is free.

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The Map

Distance

Distance	Section	Cumulative
Prizren
Therande	18 km	18 km
Shtime	26 km	44 km
Lypjan	15 km	59 km
Prishtina	18 km	77 km

Images